The first thing I noticed right away is that you’ll need a light stand with a regular foot print. I tend to use some light stands with a small footprint so I’ll have to use some weights to hold them steady even in the studio.
There is one thing I don’t particularly like about this and that all of the controls are inside the Brolly Box so unless you are using some of the newer wireless triggers that allow you to change the lighting settings from the camera you’re going to have a little bit of trouble adjusting the lights. Then again you can make your lighting adjustments from the camera using the EC functions. That should dial it in just right.
I’m sure once you get the lighting figured out then you’ll know your basic set up and that should go pretty smoothly after a couple of test shots.
The photo I took here on the right shows one shot without any fill card or light on the opposite side of my model. She's sometimes a little stiff and doesn't respond well to commands so I end up doing most of the work but at least I get a pretty good idea of how my shots will look and it also sets me up with a basic set up.
The light is a Canon 430 on manual 1/8th power about a meter from Styre's right cheek. The point of the umbrella shaft is pointed right at her nose. The lighting set up is almost to a split light effect. Not quite 90 degrees to camera left. Triggered by Pocket Wizard IIs. The lens was a 85mm f-1.8 ISO 100, Manual, Flash, 1/125 at f-5.6. I was about a meter away.
I think this will work really well for what I have in mind. I like the effect of the 'halo' light so this will work well with my method of portrait photography.
It fits in its own little sleeve nicely. You just have to make sure that the black backing gets inside the umbrella before you get it totally collapsed. It slips much easier into the provided sleeve then.